
Sabai dee means "Hello" in Lao and we now have that engrained in our vocabulary. We had a great time in Luang Prabang. How could we not in such a calm town full of small streets to explore, great food to eat (Thai like food along with, because of the French influence, sweet and savory crepes and baguette sandwiches), a river to look out on, rolling hills in the distance, and wonderfully nice people to be among. Our first few days in the city were filled with lingering in the morning, strolling until we found a place for morning coffee, being entertained with Henry trying to find the nearest chicken, picking and going on an adventure, reading and relaxing during Henry’s afternoon nap, hunting for butterflies when he woke up, then heading back out for a delicious dinner and perhaps exploring the evening market. We spent the second half of the trip out of town at a relatively secluded resort of sorts nested within the jungle along a river where we hiked to an elephant camp a few mornings, went on a short boat ride, and just relaxed. Spending a long week in Laos was just what we needed after the last few months. We hope you like the photos and extra details.
The hotels we found through internet searches were fantastic. The first one had a garden in the back (pictured here) teeming with butterflies and periodically chickens much to Henry’s happiness. At one point Henry and I were exploring the grounds when a women working for the hotel came out to pluck rose apples from the tree. Henry loved the task of snatch up the fallen fruit and putting it in the bag I held. He also appreciated being paid with 2 oranges.
Here's one of Henry's favorite discoveries off in the distance - can you see the chickens?
The second fairly secluded resort we stayed at was amazing. We had a private, pretty big villa with a huge balcony looking out over the river, rolling hills, and jungle. At night we left the doors open and slept to the jungle sounds. There were a total of 8 villas at this place and only 2 others were booked the first few days we were there and then we had the place to ourselves. Better yet, it was a 15 minute jungle hike away from an elephant camp, had an amazing pool (pictured here, albeit a cold pool that we just sort of waded around), and a little space at the river front.
Back to the city...
One morning we 'climbed' Mount Phu Si. This is basically a hill with steps to get to the top. At the top there is a wat and a great view of the surrounding city. Our muscles were shocked to deal with the elevation change which we never have in Dhaka. This feeling continued throughout the trip; it was great to put my legs to work like that. Across the street from the entrance to Mt Phu Si was the Royal Palace Museum. While we were there we wanted, or needed since it was quite hot, to take a break in the shade and decided to sit by a pond with tons of hungry goldfish which we fed. Within a minute we had tons of kids around who enjoyed Henry sharing the fish food with them. By the end Henry had a gang of friends.
That evening and one or two more times we strolled through the street market that was set up and broken down every single evening. Most of the time Henry was running around making friends with the stall owners and luckily he didn't break anything.


One of the adventures we stumbled upon was a boat ride across the river to take a walk through a village, climb some more stairs to a wat, and, unbeknownst to use at the outset, descend into a little cave. We discovered this opportunity when we lingered a little longer than normal at a breakfast spot as Henry bonded with a rooster. This huge rooster would belt out cock-a-doodle-do encouraging Henry to come find him. Invariably, we'd find the rooster again (as you can imagine, it wasn't too hard) and Henry would stare at him awhile or even walk right up to him. More often then not, the rooster would then turn to Henry to say his cock-a-doodle-do hello at which point Henry would forget all the manners we've taught him and just run the other way. What happened to saying Hello back? This happened, oh, about 11 times before we headed off to the boat ride.
Walking through the village...picking up rocks
Heading into and enjoying the depths of the cave (it was surprisingly warm in there):
And walking back to our boat:
The other adventure we took from the city was a trip to Pak Ou Cave which turned out to not be an actual cave but just a nook in a cliff. Alas, we had fun. During this trip Henry became attached to his hat which was a great feat. Other highlights were Henry finding a monkey leashed to a tree and a completely random owl perched on a stick at a tea stall during our walk from the car down to the water. Most people take a 1.5 hour boat ride to the cave, versus the 45 minute drive we took, and as a result we were happy to not have a crowd during the part walking part.
Henry's head is blocking the view of the nook in the cliff where our boat is heading.
More stairs...


One of the first things we did after settling in to the second place we stayed was take a hike to the nearby elephant camp. When asking how to get there, the hotel owner suggested we take the road which was direct and would take about 30 minutes. Under his breath he said that we could also take the shorter 'path' through the woods but it might be a little bit of a challenge with Henry. Granted the roads in this area were empty dirt roads but how could we pass up some time amongst the trees especially since we were coming from Bangladesh with no person-less space. The first time around it was a thrill to find our way through the forest because, as you can see, there wasn't too much of a path. Not to worry, Scott's trusty Eagle Scout skills got us through to the other side. After that it was a short jaunt to the camp where we sat and watched the elephants for awhile. We thought we'd try to go on a ride that day but after Henry freaked out when we fed the elephants banana's - I guess I can understand that it might be a little unsettling for the little guy to have a huge elephant truck come sniffing near his face with nostrils the size of his ears - we decided not to push it. The brilliant thing was that we could just walk back the next day.
You can see in this picture below Henry's new trick of jabbing his finger(s) in his cheek(s) and smiling super dramatically when we pull out the camera or say smile.
We decided to try out the road route on the way back and as you can see exploring the forest for bugs on the way there and watching elephants roam around can be quite tiring. He definitely took a long, hard nap that day.
Henry woke up the next morning saying "Ride elephant!" which we took as a sign to get to the camp as early as possible and not let the opportunity slip by. The ride included walking down to and through the river. From that day Henry has talked about "ride elephant swimming" just about every day. In fact, when I ask him in the morning what he dreamed about he actually has an answer now. Up until last week he would just stare at me like I was asking some lame, mom question but for the past few mornings he actually responded with "ride elephant swimming!". Whether he dreamed about that or not it's great to know we didn't traumatize him!

The other side trip we took from the hotel was a ~10 minute "motor boat" (as Henry loves to talk about) ride up to Tad Sae waterfall. Since it's the dry season the waterfall was pretty paltry in terms of water flow but beautiful none the less. At times I thought it looked like a man-made miniature put-put course since the rock formations seemed so smooth and strategically designed for easy climbing, but Scott assured me they were natural. One advantage of the going at the tail end of the dry season - practically no other visitors. However, there is a network of ziplines going through the park and at one point a group for 6 people came gliding through. Henry was totally mesmerized by the "flying people".


The rest of our time at the resort was spent, as I mentioned, relaxing either by the pool area or by the river to throw rocks, walking back and forth on the bamboo bridge, playing with the owners dog (Henry and the dog became best friends), and listening to jungle sounds. Was it mean to let Henry believe that one of the sounds coming from the trees was a troop of monkeys when really we think it was probably some funky bird - how could we burst his astonished bubble?
And finally, what a treat to say good night on the last night in Laos to a special friend who made his/her first appearance that night just for the event. Maybe at that point we should have questioned leaving the doors open, but that would have just been rude to our potential visitors.
Additional photos:
Henry doesn't need to follow the crowd. This was taken while we were out with Henry on a morning walk in the city and saw the Tak Bat or the monks on their morning alms walk.
Momma and Henry at the top of Mt Phu Si
The End. Phew.